South of France
We recently traveled to Sweden for a friend’s wedding, and decided to add France to the front end of the trip. We spent a few days winding our way through the South of France - starting in Nice, then making our way through Èze, Monaco, Cap Ferrat, Antibes, Cannes, and Île Sainte-Marguerite. It sounds like a lot, but the Riviera is surprisingly easy to piece together because so many of the towns are close together.
Trip Structure
If you only have a few days, I’d start in Nice and then choose one second base depending on the kind of trip you want.
Nice is an easy first stop because it has the airport, the Old Town, the beach, good restaurants, and easy access to the towns along the coast. It feels lively and layered, more like a real city than a sleepy beach town, which I ended up loving.
From there, you can do Èze, Monaco, and Cap Ferrat as a day trip. Èze is the charming hilltop village everyone talks about, Monaco is fun as a quick scenic stop, and Cap Ferrat is where things start to feel quieter, more residential, and very old-school Riviera.
For the second half, we stayed on the Antibes / Juan-les-Pins side, which was a nice change of pace because the energy is much more relaxed.
Where we stayed
Hôtel du Couvent, Nice
Hôtel du Couvent was one of the biggest highlights of the trip.
It is extremely charming and historic, but also beautifully restored. The design is impeccable without feeling too serious, and the whole property has this feeling of staying at someone’s old family villa rather than a traditional hotel.
The location was also perfect. It’s tucked in the Old Town area, so you can easily wander through the neighborhood, walk toward the beach, and explore Nice without needing to overthink logistics. One thing to note is that some of the nearby streets are pedestrian only, and Ubers can’t take you all the way to the entrance of the hotel. Taxis can, so learn from our mistakes :)
The spa was the best surprise. We didn’t fully realize what it was until we got there, but it has this underground Roman bath-style setup with plunge pools, a giant hot tub, cold plunge, steam room, and showers. It felt so peaceful and authentic, and it ended up being one of our favorite parts of the hotel.
Breakfast was also amazing - fresh squeezed juice, pastries, eggs, French butter, and all the little details that make a hotel breakfast feel like vacation. I would absolutely stay here again and would honestly build part of the trip around it.
1932 Hotel & Spa Cap d’Antibes
For the second half of the trip, we stayed at 1932 Hotel & Spa Cap d’Antibes, which worked well location-wise since it’s on the Juan-les-Pins / Cap d’Antibes side of Antibes, close to beach clubs and Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel. The hotel had a cool rooftop, but overall wasn’t my favorite - the design felt more Vegas than Riviera, and after Hôtel du Couvent, it was definitely a step down. Fine for convenience, but I’d look for more charm next time.
Nice
Nice surprised me in the best way.
I think I had mentally categorized it as more of a transit city, but it has such a fun mix of Old Town charm, beach energy, shopping, and restaurants. It’s also a great base if you want to explore other towns without changing hotels every night.
We spent our first full day wandering through Old Town and the beach area, which was the perfect way to get our bearings. The Old Town is charming and easy to wander without much of a plan, and then the beach area gives you that classic Riviera feeling.
For lunch, we went to Bocca Nissa, which was a fun rooftop tapas spot in the center of town. It had great energy and was a nice change from eating directly on the coast.
Try Le Plongeoir for drinks, but skip food here! You can walk in after 2:30 pm.
For a more beach club-style dinner, we went to Bocca Mar. It’s a beach club during the day and turns into more of a dinner / music / people-watching scene at night. Gorgeous view too!
Afterward, we stopped at Le Shapko for live music, which was the perfect contrast. It’s divey, local-feeling, and fun in a completely different way from the polished Riviera spots.
Èze, Monaco, and Cap Ferrat
We rented a scooter for a day, which allowed us to see all of these towns in one day. Also, parking a car can be tough, especially around Èze, so the scooter was perfect!
Èze is objectively beautiful - stone streets, old village charm, incredible views - but it was also extremely crowded when we went. Go early - 9 or 10 am is best!
Rose at Château Eza is a great way to enjoy the view without turning the stop into a full day thing.
From there, we continued to Monaco. I wouldn’t necessarily make Monaco the main event unless you’re really into it, but as part of a scenic scooter day it was fun. We drove through the Monaco Grand Prix track as it was being set up for the race, which made Stephan’s day!
Cap Ferrat was probably my favorite part of that day. It felt calmer and more classic Riviera - beautiful villas, water views, quieter streets, and that slower coastal energy. We met up with San Diego friends who were staying at Royal Riviera, and walked along Promenade Maurice Rouvier. They were traveling with their 5 month old, and the whole area felt really kid friendly.
The Promenade eventually leads you into a little harbor area with restaurants, which is a great place to end the afternoon. We had appetizers and rosé at a Greek restaurant on the water called Ilios, and the fried zucchini was amazing.
Antibes, Juan-les-Pins, and Cap d’Antibes
The Antibes portion of the trip felt more beachy and relaxed. Old Town Antibes is where you’ll get more charm, wandering, markets, and classic streets. Juan-les-Pins is more beach bars, hotels, and nightlife. Cap d’Antibes is prettier and more polished, with beach clubs and a quieter coastal feel.
We were staying closer to the Juan-les-Pins / Cap d’Antibes side, which worked well for our plans because we wanted to do BABA at Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel and get to Cannes for La Guérite. We could walk to the beach club area, grab smoothies at Chacha La Plage, and generally be close to the more beach-focused part of Antibes.
Next time, I’d make a point to spend more time in Old Town Antibes.
La Guérite
La Guérite was the most fun day of the trip.
It’s on Île Sainte-Marguerite, so you get there from Cannes by boat. There are a few ways to reach the island, but I’m so glad we took the La Guérite boat because we met the most fun group of girls on the way over, and that completely made the experience.
If you want the party energy, book the second seating (around 3 pm). We shared the La Guérite pasta, grilled calamari, fish, and too much rosé. The music starts blasting, everyone is dancing on tables, and it is the most fun.
BABA at Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel
BABA was the perfect final beach day.
It’s at Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel, and the whole setup is so design-forward and beautiful. The menu is Greek focused, they have a gelato cart, great cocktails, and a cute boutique. It felt much calmer than La Guérite, which was exactly what we wanted the next day.
We rented beach chairs there after lunch and it was the perfect recovery day!
What I’d recommend
Stay at Hôtel du Couvent if you can. It was one of the best parts of the trip and made Nice feel much more special than I expected.
Use Nice as a base for the first half. It’s convenient, lively, and gives you easy access to Èze, Monaco, and Cap Ferrat.
Go to Èze early. It is charming, but the crowds really affect the experience. Do Cap Ferrat if you want something quieter and prettier.
Book the second seating at La Guérite if you want the party! Take the La Guérite boat if possible.
Don’t overpack the itinerary - wander around, enjoy the views and take me in your suitcase!
